Saturday, January 29, 2011

A pictoral


There is a connected road that runs north to south from Cairo, all the way to Johannesburg. I imagine it would take weeks, or months to travel it all the way.  It runs right through Moshi and is the main access road. Here, they call it "the tarmac".  These photos were taken out of the window of a moving vehicle, by one of my room mates Jennifer, an amazing photographer.  Thanks Jenn. 




These photos are of the tarmac between Arusha and Moshi


road side market



How?  How did they get this straw piled up like this, and why doesn't it fall?!


This man pulls his cart. Pull-carts like this are often used to transport goods. 


Going to collect water.  On his way back, these jugs will be full

school girls on the way home







Monday, January 24, 2011

take it to the bank

       As Americans, we are generally in control of our own lives at all times. Certainly there are things we have to do like work, pay bills, abide by the laws of the land, but even in those things, we choose how, when, or where they may happen. This makes us comfortable.  We don’t like it when we don’t know what happens next. What I have learned from my journey to this point is that control is an illusion.  We don’t ever really have it like we think we do.  I have been learning not to be afraid of giving up control because sometimes the world has so much more to offer if we just take the chance.
       With trepidation, I climbed into the four-wheel drive with my new "boss", and the three women.  Mama Mrema spoke in Swahili with one of the ladies for quite some time.  We barreled down the road and I absorbed the sights of Africa with child like eyes.  We turned off the tarmac and onto a dirt road, driving for an hour into the hills at the base of Kilimanjaro, but not covering much ground.  The going was slow and we alternated between opening the windows because of the heat and closing them due to the dust. Finally Mama Mrema spoke to me. “These women are from Uganda, where they work at a women’s center.  Last year, the Archdiocese, funded a trip for me to go see what they do, and now they have provided the means for them to come here.  Their center is having trouble with women not paying back their loans, so we will teach them our system.  Today we are going to a village to see a VICOBA in action. A VICOBA is a Village Community Bank.  This bank provides micro loans to members so they can start small businesses."
       We pulled up to a small white building and suddenly singing women surrounded our car. They smiled, waved and sang a welcome song as we made our way out of the vehicle.  They were all dressed in their best kanga’s, the traditional fabric African women wrap around their bodies. They pressed against us and took my purse and water bottle from my hand.  I was alarmed, but looked over to see them taking the other’s things as well, and they seemed unconcerned.  They carried our load for us as they continued to sing us into the building.  This was my first exposure to the generous, and considerate hospitality that Tanzanians are known for. When we entered, I saw a few benches, a table in the front of the room and chairs behind it.  They led us up to the front to be seated in a plastic chair.  The others filed onto the benches.  I felt like a dignitary.  A meeting commenced.
       From literally out of nowhere a metal box appeared with three locks around the sides.  Mama Mrema said something in Swahili and four women gathered around the box.  She spoke again and they simultaneously opened the locks, while the fourth stood as a witness to the event.  Upon opening the box, they withdrew small booklets; several register pads and Tanzanian shillings (money).  I was witnessing the operations of their bank. 
       The brilliant system is this:  A group of 30 people in a village get together. Within this group of 30 there are “magnets” of five each.  These five people are close friends and have agreed to vouch for each other’s loans.  If someone has trouble with repayment, the others help, brainstorm, or ante up.  This is how they have a high rate of repayment, and in fact, some women are paying off their loans before the time limit of four months is up.  The metal box is wrapped and stored in an inconspicuous covering, and is moved locations frequently for security.  The ‘Key Keepers” each have a key they hide, and they must all be present in the same place to open the box.  This keeps any one person from having access.  Each person has a number on a booklet - no names, and the money is recorded in the form of the stamp of an animal. That way if the box was stolen, or broken into, no one in the village would know who had how much money, to then go rob them.  The entire system is about accountability and security.
       Joining the bank is not free.  Each person must want in badly enough to save up and contribute a small amount.  Then, seed money is added to the pot from WEECE through donors.  When members take out a loan, the interest is taken out immediately and paid up front.  A portion of this interest goes to new loans, a small portion to supplies for running of the group; another two portions go into different accounts.  One is for education and the other is for medical. If someone needs help with school fees for the children, or someone has a medical emergency, they can take out a loan.  These loans are interest free though.  They are just designed to help care for the community. At the end of one year they "Break the Circle", and all monies are divided up.  The seed money always stays in the bank, and members can sign up for another year.
       I found this completely fascinating as I watched women come forward to repay, and take out new loans.  This process took quite a while, and as it ended, I began to smell a delicious aroma. Several women came out of a small back room with pots of food.  A woman came to us with a basin and a pitcher of water.  She poured the water over our hands, washing them before we ate. They served us plates piled high and gave us soda (a luxury), and utensils (they ate with their hands).  Afterwards, Mama turned to me and said; “Now we will go see the fruits of their labor.”
       We piled back into the car and visited several members’ homes where the loans had made a huge impact on their lives. Culturally, the women stay home, cook, clean, raise children, and are not educated.  They must ask their husbands for money for food, school fees or clothes and sometimes, even if they can leave the property.  If there is not enough money, they must make do, and children don’t have the chance to learn.  If there is a small amount they will send only the boys to school.  The thinking is, 'Why would we spend money on the girls when they will be married young and increase their husband’s household, not ours. They don’t need to read to cook and clean.'

Eh hem,    ok … this is a rant I will save for another day.

        Anyway, these women are now sending their girls to school, and are able to feed their children every day.  They told me, through Mama’s translation, that their husband’s were treating them with more respect because they weren’t begging for money all the time.  The women’s self esteem improved, and their husbands weren’t as oppressive. The entire family has been affected.
        Back at the meeting place again, Mama Mrema asked me to speak.  I told them I had worked with a women’s center in America. I talked to them about their courage, and strength, and thanked them for letting me learn from them.  They were surprised to hear that white women wrestled with some of the same issues, as they sincerely thought it was only the plight of African women. They seemed encouraged and a little less isolated by this news, and said that it meant we were all sisters. They began singing again, and motioned me around the table.  As they sang, they spun me around and wrapped me in a kanga that was my gift.  They turned me back around to find tears pouring down my face.  They had so little, yet they fed me and gave me precious fabric. An elderly woman came forward. She wiped my tears with her rough brown hands, and gently kissed each cheek.


the key keepers open the bank


This woman used her loans to buy, chickens, chicken feed, and to build this secure coop.  Now she sells eggs.


One woman built this dehydrator, and dries tea leaves, fruits and vegetables.  She puts them in small bags and sells them at a market

This member bought pigs to raise and sell. She built this pen herself. 

A bounty!

I did not post photos of their living conditions, because often the pens they built for their animals were superior.

Friday, January 21, 2011

twende

      My alarm went off and I found myself tangled in sheets and a mosquito net. The bottom sheet, for some mysterious reason, did not go all the way to the end of the bed.  It's not fitted, rather it is a small flat sheet which is tucked in on the sides, and it didn't reach but to my shins. Consequently, the sheets bunched up all night and I mostly slept on mattress.  I somehow managed to untangle myself from the web and tried to get a handle on the butterflies in my stomach.  It was my first day on the job, and I had no idea what that might entail. I knew that my placement was at WEECE, Women's Education and Economic Center, and that WEECE worked with women, helping them to start village community banks where they could take out micro loans, and start a business. I also knew they ran a small vocational school for teenagers who wouldn't otherwise be able to attend school.  CCS is very good about matching volunteer skills with each placement, and this seemed like the perfect fit for my resume.
       The van pulled out of CCS at 7:30 am with Abby and I on board.  Abby had already been at WEECE for several months, and on the way she filled me in.
       "Mama Mrema is one of the founders and is also the director of WEECE.  She is WEECE. In fact, if something ever happened to her, it could conceivably fall apart. Anyway, she's determined, driven, and down right intimidating, but I love her because she also has a quick wit and a funny sense of humor.  She's African, but had the good fortune to complete her studies in Canada and Germany, and then returned to use her knowledge to make a difference in her beloved Tanzania.  Wait until you see what she's accomplished."
       "She's scary, huh?" It was all I had latched onto because everything in my world seemed scary."                      
       "Yes, very," she laughed.
       We banged on a huge metal door, and a young woman in a school uniform, opened it from the other side. "Karibuni" You are both welcomed.  We entered a courtyard which was being swept with a tree branch, by another student.  We were led to a small sitting area off to the side and told to please wait. We watched as students all over the compound cleaned and scrubbed, mopping the floors by hand with a rag while bent over in half.  From around the building I heard a soft voice say,
       "Good morning Mama Mrema."
       A large voice boomed back, "What's so good about this morning?! Tell me!"
       The young girl jumped back just a bit, but I could see as Mama came around the corner that she had a huge grin on her face.
       "Well," the girl stammered, "Kilimanjaro has poked her face out to say hello, and maybe the rains will come this afternoon and we will be blessed." She stood with her hands clasped nervously behind her back.
       "Well then, I guess it is a good day. Very good English." Her congratulatory slap on the back sent the girl's frail body into the wall, which went largely unnoticed because she had already turned to me.
       "And what do we have here? A new volunteer?"
        Abby chimed in, "Yes Mama, this is Lucetta from America."
        She shook my hand, and held it.
        "Well, you are most welcome here.  Thank you for coming."
       At that moment, three ladies emerged from around the corner, and a four wheel drive pulled into the courtyard. Mama Mrema glanced up.
       "Ah, I see we are ready. Abby, you stay here to teach the girls English, and Computers too, because we have electricity today.  Tell CCS that Lucetta from America won't be back until dinner." She looked at me.
       "You.  Do you have water?"
       "Yes ma'am."
       "Twende." Let's go.


cleaning comes first in the mornings
learning a new song for the graduation ceremony

students share computers in a class taught by volunteers

The skill of sewing, in Africa, can support them for life.
Notice they are using a foot pump machine because they rarely have electricity.